Bellinzona, Switzerland

Ticino Bellinzona

Bellinzona

Bellinzona is the capital of the canton of Ticino, built where the Ticino valley narrows before splitting toward the Gotthard, San Bernardino and Lukmanier passes.

The town, home to around 43,000 people at an altitude of 240 metres, sits beneath three medieval castles, Castelgrande, Montebello and Sasso Corbaro, whose walls and ramparts have formed a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2000. Built mostly in the 15th century under the Dukes of Milan and taken by the Swiss Confederacy in 1500, the fortifications once closed the entire valley to control trade and troop movement between northern Europe and Lombardy.

Things worth slowing down for

A few of our favourite spots in Bellinzona.

Bellinzona

Castle sasso corbaro

Wind on the ramparts, Lake Maggiore somewhere far below.

Culture

What makes Bellinzona slow travel perfect

Bellinzona is a fortress town that never stopped being a town. The three castles, Castelgrande on its rock above the station, Montebello a short climb to the east, Sasso Corbaro higher still on an isolated outcrop, were built by the Dukes of Milan to hold the valley. Five hundred years later the walls are still walked rather than merely viewed: towers open to climb, ramparts to follow, views over the Magadino plain that once mattered for entirely different reasons.

Below the walls, the old town runs on its own schedule. The Saturday market fills the squares with local cheese, salami and Bissoli, the sweet chestnut treat particular to the region. At Grotto San Michele, Merlot arrives in a boccalino, the small clay jug that has served Ticino wine for generations, on a terrace facing the same valley the castles were built to guard.

Bellinzona sits between two kinds of Switzerland. To the north, the passes climb into the Alps. To the south, the Magadino plain opens toward Lago Maggiore, Locarno and Ascona. An afternoon is enough to walk from the alleys of the old town to the top of Sasso Corbaro and see both directions from the same wall.